How to Tile a Bathroom Floor: Step-by-Step for Beginners
Bathroom Flooring · Installation Guide
A complete, honest walkthrough for tiling a bathroom floor yourself - from subfloor prep to grout sealing. Includes real timelines, tool lists, costs, and the mistakes first-timers make that pros don't.
A bathroom design expert and writer at Bathify, Amon specializes in creating content around smart layouts, premium fixtures, and modern bathroom aesthetics. His work bridges the gap between visual appeal and practical functionality, guiding US homeowners toward beautifully designed and highly efficient bathroom spaces.
· bathify.com
2-3
Days for a standard 60 sq ft bathroom (drying time included)
$150-$600
Typical DIY material cost (tile, thinset, grout, tools)
10%
Minimum tile overage to order for waste & cuts
24 hr
Minimum thinset cure time before grouting
Start Here
What Makes Bathroom Floor Tiling Different From Other Tile Jobs
Tiling a bathroom floor is one of the most satisfying beginner DIY projects you can take on - but it's also the one where small prep mistakes turn into expensive failures. Unlike backsplash tile, which is vertical and forgiving, bathroom floor tile bears foot traffic, water infiltration, temperature swings, and the weight of fixtures every single day. Get the subfloor prep right, and a properly tiled bathroom floor will outlast the house. Skip it, and tiles crack within 12-18 months.
This guide covers everything a first-timer needs to know: how to assess your subfloor, how to plan a layout that avoids awkward slivers at the doorway, how to set tile cleanly in thinset, how to make cuts around a toilet flange, and how to grout and seal for a finish that holds up in Houston humidity as well as a Denver winter. We're also flagging the six mistakes that account for nearly every beginner tiling failure - because knowing what not to do is as valuable as the steps themselves. Whether you're working with porcelain or ceramic tile, the process is identical.
Before You Buy Tile: Measure Twice
Measure your bathroom's square footage (length × width), add 10% for a standard rectangular layout, and buy all your tile from the same dye lot. A mismatched lot is visible in raking light and cannot be fixed without retiling sections. Write the dye lot number on the box before you carry it in from the car.
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What You'll Need
Tools & Materials You Need Before Starting
One of the most common reasons beginner tile jobs stall mid-project is discovering midway through that a critical tool is missing. Gather everything below before you begin. Renting a wet saw from Home Depot or Lowe's costs $50-$80/day and handles every cut you'll encounter on a standard floor.
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Required Tools
You cannot proceed without these
Must-Have
Wet saw (rent or buy), notched trowel (1/4"×3/8" V-notch for most floor tiles), rubber mallet, 4-foot level, chalk line, tape measure, grout float, large sponges (at least 3), two 5-gallon buckets, knee pads, pencil, and safety glasses.
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Required Materials
Buy all before you start
Must-Have
Floor tiles (+10% overage), polymer-modified thinset mortar, tile spacers (1/8" for most floors), cement backer board (if over wood subfloor), backer board screws, alkali-resistant mesh tape, sanded floor grout, penetrating grout sealer, and transition strip for the doorway.
⚡
Optional But Helpful
Makes the job faster and cleaner
Recommended
Tile leveling system (clips + wedges - eliminates lippage), floor leveling compound for low spots, foam backer board underlayment for noise reduction, margin trowel for mixing, and a cordless drill with mixing paddle for thinset.
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Typical Material Costs
DIY budget for a 60 sq ft bathroom
Budget Guide
Basic ceramic tile: $1-$3/sq ft. Porcelain tile: $3-$8/sq ft. Thinset (50 lb bag): $18-$28. Cement backer board (3-pack): $25-$40. Grout (10 lb): $18-$25. Grout sealer: $12-$20. Total materials for 60 sq ft: $150-$600 depending on tile choice.
Pro Tip
Buy a tile leveling system if you're using tiles larger than 12×12 inches. These inexpensive clip-and-wedge systems (about $15-$25 for a 100-piece starter kit) virtually eliminate lippage - the raised edge between adjacent tiles that catches feet and looks amateurish. They're the single biggest difference-maker in a beginner tile job involving larger-format tiles.
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Step 1
Subfloor Assessment & Preparation
Subfloor prep is the single most important step in the entire project. Tile is rigid. It doesn't flex. If your subfloor flexes even 1/16 inch under foot traffic, the bond between tile and thinset will eventually fail - the grout cracks first, then water infiltrates, then tiles pop. Most tile failures that homeowners blame on "bad grout" or "cheap tile" are actually caused by inadequate subfloor prep.
1
Walk the floor and identify every problem
Walk the entire bathroom floor slowly. Listen for squeaks (loose panels or joists), feel for soft spots (possible rot or delamination), and note any areas where the floor bounces or deflects. Mark problems with painter's tape so you don't forget them.
2
Fix squeaks and loose panels before anything else
Squeaks are caused by the subfloor panel rubbing against joists. Drive 1-5/8 inch deck screws through the subfloor into the joist every 6 inches in the squeaky area. This won't add height and costs almost nothing. If you have a soft spot, the subfloor panel or the joist beneath it needs replacement - this is a job for a contractor if the rot is extensive.
3
Check flatness with a 10-foot straightedge
The Tile Council of North America (TCNA) requires subfloors to be flat within 3/16 inch over a 10-foot span for standard tile, and within 1/8 inch over 10 feet for large-format tiles (15 inches or larger). Use a long level or straightedge to find high and low spots. Mark them with chalk. High spots: grind or sand down. Low spots: fill with self-leveling floor compound (SLC) such as Mapei Planipatch or Henry LevelPro.
4
Install cement backer board over wood subfloors
Over a wood subfloor (which includes most US homes built before 2000), you must install cement backer board before tiling. Backer board is dimensionally stable, waterproof, and provides a proper bonding surface for thinset. Cut backer board with a utility knife and a straightedge (score and snap, like drywall). Fasten with backer board screws every 8 inches in the field and 6 inches at edges. Tape all seams with alkali-resistant mesh tape and skim with thinset.
⚠️ Never tile directly onto vinyl, particle board, or OSB subfloor panels. Vinyl doesn't bond properly with thinset. Particle board swells with moisture and fails. OSB (oriented strand board) is not structurally adequate for floor tile without a layer of plywood or backer board added on top. Any of these three will cause tile failure within 1-3 years.
💡 Concrete subfloors (common in ground-floor bathrooms and basement bathrooms in the Midwest and Sun Belt): check for moisture by taping a 12×12 inch sheet of plastic to the concrete and sealing the edges with tape. Leave for 24 hours. If condensation forms on the underside, apply a waterproofing membrane before tiling. Mapei Mapelastic AquaDefense or LATICRETE Hydro Ban are widely available at Home Depot and Lowe's across the US.
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Step 2
Tile Layout Planning: How to Avoid Awkward Cuts
Layout planning is where most beginners make their biggest visual mistake: starting at the wall and tiling across the room. This almost always results in narrow sliver cuts at the opposite wall - or worse, at the doorway where everyone sees them. The correct approach starts from the center of the room and works outward, with a dry-lay test run before any thinset is mixed.
1
Find the center of the room
Measure each wall and mark the midpoint. Snap a chalk line between the midpoints of opposing walls in both directions. You now have two perpendicular centerlines dividing the floor into four equal quadrants. Check these lines for square with the 3-4-5 triangle method: from the intersection, measure 3 feet along one line and 4 feet along the other. The diagonal between those two points should measure exactly 5 feet if the lines are square. If not, adjust.
2
Dry-lay tiles from center outward
Without any thinset, lay tiles out from the center intersection in one direction toward a wall, using your spacers to simulate actual grout joints. Count the tiles and measure what the cut will be at the wall. If the cut is less than half a tile wide, shift your starting line by half a tile to the left or right. Repeat for all four directions. The goal is for cut tiles at all four walls to be as equal and as large as possible - ideally more than half a tile.
3
Check the doorway and toilet position
The most visible cut in the entire room is typically the threshold at the doorway. Adjust your layout so this cut is at least a full half tile. For the toilet, the flange sits in the middle of the floor - tiles will meet at the flange with curved cuts, which are less visible but should be as symmetric as possible around the flange center.
Tile Layout Reference: Cut Sizes by Room Width
Room Width
12×12 Tile Layout (1/8" joint)
60 inches (5 ft)
4 full tiles + ~11.75" cut each side - ideal, no adjustment needed
66 inches (5.5 ft)
5 full tiles + ~5.75" cut each side - shift start by 3" for better balance
72 inches (6 ft)
5 full tiles + ~11.5" cuts each side - ideal layout, no shift
84 inches (7 ft)
6 full tiles + ~11.5" cuts each side - ideal, start at center
96 inches (8 ft)
7 full tiles + ~8.5" cuts - shift start slightly for better doorway cut
Key Spec
Remove the toilet before planning the layout - and before tiling. Tiling around a toilet results in visible, uneven cuts and gaps that fill with mildew-prone caulk over time. With the toilet removed, you can tile across the entire floor cleanly and reinstall the toilet over the finished tile. The toilet must be lifted anyway if the existing floor height changes. Always use a new wax ring on reinstallation - they're $5-$12 and are single-use.
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Step 3
Mixing Thinset & Setting Tile
Thinset is the mortar that bonds your tile to the subfloor. Getting the mix consistency right and applying it correctly is what determines whether your tile stays put for decades or starts popping in two years. There is no single step that matters more for long-term adhesion than proper thinset coverage.
1
Mix thinset to the right consistency
Add water to the bucket first, then add thinset powder. Use a drill with a mixing paddle for best results. Mix to a smooth, creamy peanut butter consistency - it should hold a ridge when you drag the trowel through it and not immediately slump. Let it "slake" for 10 minutes (sit undisturbed), then remix briefly. If it's too wet, it will slide off vertical trowel ridges. If too dry, it won't bond properly. Use cold water in summer to extend working time.
2
Apply thinset in small sections
Spread thinset with the flat side of the notched trowel first to key it into the substrate, then comb through it with the notched side at a consistent 45-degree angle. Work in sections of 3-4 square feet maximum. Thinset skins over in 15-30 minutes depending on temperature and humidity - if you press your fingertip into it and it doesn't stick, it's skinned and must be scraped up and replaced. Never set tile into skinned thinset.
3
Back-butter large tiles
For tiles 12×12 inches or larger, apply a thin skim coat of thinset to the back of the tile as well as the floor. This "back-buttering" ensures full contact and eliminates hollow spots that become cracking points under load. For mosaic tiles on a mesh backing, skip back-buttering and focus on working thinset into the mesh from below.
4
Set each tile with a firm press and slight twist
Place the tile into position and press down firmly with your palms, then give it a slight back-and-forth twist to collapse the trowel ridges and maximize contact. Use a rubber mallet and a beating block (a scrap piece of wood or tile) to tap the surface level. Check level frequently - once every 3-4 tiles - against your reference tiles. Insert spacers at all four corners before moving to the next tile.
5
Check thinset coverage
Every 15-20 minutes, lift one tile from a just-set section and examine the back. You should see thinset covering at least 80% of the tile's back surface with no bare corners or large voids. Industry standard for floor tile in wet areas is 95% contact coverage. If you're seeing less than 80%, either back-butter tiles, comb more thinset, or work in smaller sections.
💡 Work from your chalk lines outward: Complete the first quadrant of the room before moving to the second. This way you always have dry floor to kneel on while reaching into the wet thinset section - no more awkward contortions trying to reach across still-wet tile.
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Step 4
Making Cuts for Edges, Doorways & Fixtures
Every tile job involves cuts. The straight cuts along walls are easy once you have a wet saw. The curved cuts around the toilet flange are what intimidate first-timers - but they're manageable with the right approach. The key rule for all cuts: measure each cut tile individually. Walls are rarely perfectly parallel, and a template cut from one side of the room won't fit the other.
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Straight Cuts (Wall Borders)
Wet saw · Score & snap
Most Common
Measure the gap from the last full tile to the wall, subtract 1/8 inch for expansion, and mark the cut line on the tile with a pencil and combination square. A wet saw makes this a 10-second cut. For ceramic tile less than 1/2 inch thick, a manual tile cutter (snap cutter) also works and avoids the wet saw rental.
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Curved Cuts (Toilet Flange)
Tile nippers · Angle grinder
Trickiest Cut
Make a cardboard template of the flange curve, transfer to the tile with a pencil, then make a series of straight relief cuts toward the curve with the wet saw. Snap out the waste pieces with tile nippers, and smooth the curve with a rubbing stone or angle grinder with a diamond wheel. The toilet base covers up to 1/2 inch of imperfection around the flange - don't stress over perfection here.
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Cuts Around Vanity & Tub
Template method · Corner cuts
Moderate Difficulty
Run tile under the vanity toe kick where possible - this allows the vanity to be replaced later without exposing bare subfloor. For tubs: tile should run under the tub apron by at least 1 inch. For shower thresholds: use a 45-degree miter cut at the transition for a professional finish.
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Doorway Threshold
Transition strip · Level check
Finishing Detail
At the doorway, the tile floor transitions to hallway flooring. If tile is higher than the hallway floor, use a T-molding or reducer transition strip. If the same height, a flush transition. T-moldings are typically installed after the tile is grouted by pressing a track into thinset at the threshold and snapping the T-molding onto the track.
⚠️ Always wear safety glasses when cutting tile. Tile chips travel fast and have sharp edges. A wet saw minimizes airborne dust, but ceramic and porcelain shards are real injury hazards. Tile nippers especially create unpredictable chip patterns - eye protection is non-negotiable for this step.
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Step 5
Grouting the Floor: Application, Timing & Cleanup
Grouting is where a tile job transforms from "obviously installed" to "looks like a pro did it." The actual grout application takes less than an hour for a standard bathroom. The cleanup and haze removal take longer and require patience. Rushing the cleanup is the most common grouting mistake - and it results in a permanently hazed, dull floor.
Wait a minimum of 24 hours after setting the last tile before grouting. For large-format tiles or in cold weather (below 60°F), wait 48 hours. Remove all tile spacers before grouting - any spacer left in a joint will prevent full grout penetration and become a crack point. If you're grouting a large-format or mosaic tile floor, the grouting technique varies slightly in the section below.
1
Mix grout to the right consistency
Use sanded grout for joints 1/8 inch or wider (most floor tile). Unsanded grout is for joints under 1/8 inch. Mix to a thick, smooth paste - stiffer than thinset, similar to peanut butter or thick hummus. Let grout slake for 5-10 minutes, then remix. Do not add more water after slaking.
2
Apply grout with a rubber grout float
Scoop grout onto the floor and spread diagonally across the tile joints with the float held at a 45-degree angle. Work in sections of 10-15 square feet at a time. Press firmly to pack grout fully into each joint - you want no voids or air pockets. After packing a section, drag the float at a steep angle (nearly vertical) across the joints diagonally to remove excess grout from the tile faces.
3
Wait, then clean with a damp sponge
Wait 20-30 minutes after applying grout to a section before cleaning. The grout needs to firm up slightly - if you clean immediately, you'll pull grout out of the joints. When the surface is slightly firm to the touch, wring a large sponge almost dry and wipe in circular motions. Rinse the sponge in clean water and repeat. Change your rinse water frequently - dirty water leaves a film on the tile.
4
Remove grout haze
After the entire floor is grouted and initially cleaned, a thin grout haze will form on the tile surface as it dries. After 1-2 hours, buff away the haze with a clean, dry microfiber cloth or chamois. For stubborn haze on porcelain tile, a commercial grout haze remover like Aqua Mix Cement & Grout Film Remover works without damaging the tile surface.
Grout Type
Joint Width
Best For
Requires Sealing
Sanded Grout
1/8" to 1/2"
Floor tile, most bathroom floors
Yes
Unsanded Grout
Under 1/8"
Wall tile, tight-joint porcelain
Yes
Epoxy Grout
1/16" to 1/2"
Commercial, heavy-use wet areas
No
Urethane Grout
1/16" to 1/2"
Premium residential, no sealing needed
No
💡 Grout color matters more than most beginners realize. Light grout makes a floor feel more open and classic. Dark grout shows less dirt on a lighter tile but stains harder from mop residue. Matching grout to the tile body color creates the most seamless look for large-format tile. See our full bathroom grout color guide for a complete breakdown of how grout color changes the visual feel of a floor.
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Step 6
Sealing the Grout & Completing the Installation
Grout is porous. Without a sealer, bathroom grout absorbs water, cleaning products, and body oils - turning gray or dark over time and becoming a breeding ground for mold. Sealing is a 20-minute step that prevents years of discoloration and extends the time between deep cleaning sessions significantly. This step applies to any cementitious grout (sanded or unsanded). Epoxy and urethane grouts are pre-sealed and skip this step.
1
Wait for full grout cure
Allow grout to cure for a minimum of 72 hours before applying sealer. In a cool or humid bathroom (common in basements or in cities like Seattle or New Orleans), allow 5-7 days. The grout must be completely dry for the sealer to penetrate properly. If the bathroom can't be kept dry for 72 hours, use a fan to assist drying.
2
Apply penetrating grout sealer
Use a penetrating (impregnating) sealer, not a topical film sealer. Penetrating sealers soak into the grout and don't peel. Apply with a small foam brush or sealer applicator, working the sealer into the grout lines. Avoid getting excess sealer on tile faces (wipe off immediately on polished porcelain - it can leave a film). Let sit for the manufacturer's specified time (typically 5-10 minutes), then wipe excess with a dry cloth.
3
Reinstall the toilet and fixtures
Once the sealer has dried (typically 1-2 hours before light foot traffic, 24 hours before wet use), reinstall the toilet with a brand-new wax ring. The toilet flange should sit at or slightly above the finished tile surface - if it's more than 1/4 inch below, use a flange extender kit ($8-$15) before setting the new wax ring. Reconnect the supply line and test for leaks before using the toilet.
Key Spec
Reapply grout sealer every 1-2 years in a frequently used bathroom. A quick test: drop a few beads of water on the grout. If they bead up and sit, the sealer is still working. If they absorb immediately and darken the grout, it's time to reapply. For tips on keeping your grout looking fresh between applications, see our guide on how to clean bathroom tile grout.
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Avoid These
6 Common Beginner Tile Mistakes (That Pros Never Make)
Most tile failures - cracked grout, popping tiles, lippage, color blotching - trace back to one of these six mistakes. Fixing them after the tile is installed typically means removing and retiling sections. Knowing them before you start is free.
Mistake
What Goes Wrong
How to Avoid It
Skipping subfloor prep
Tiles crack within 6-18 months as subfloor flexes
Test flatness, fix squeaks, install backer board
Starting layout at the wall
Sliver cuts at door - visible every day
Always start from center, dry-lay first
Working too slowly (thinset skins over)
Tiles don't bond - pop off within months
Work in 3-4 sq ft sections, press tile within 15 min
Cleaning grout too early
Grout pulled out of joints - gaps and cracks
Wait 20-30 minutes; test with fingertip for firmness
Not sealing grout
Grout stains and darkens within 3-6 months
Seal after 72-hour cure, reapply every 1-2 years
Buying different dye lots
Color mismatch visible in direct light - can't fix
Calculate total sq ft upfront, buy all from one lot
One More Thing: Don't Mix Thinset and Grout Brands Haphazardly
Using Mapei thinset with a compatible Mapei grout system ensures the products are engineered to work together. Mixing brands isn't necessarily wrong, but when troubleshooting adhesion or color problems, matched-brand systems are easier to diagnose and warranty claims are cleaner. Mapei, LATICRETE, and Custom Building Products (CBP) are widely available at Home Depot and Lowe's stores across the US.
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Final Thoughts & Project Checklist
Tiling a Bathroom Floor Is Genuinely Beginner-Friendly - If You Do Prep Right
First-timers with a standard 50-80 sq ft bathroom: budget a full weekend. Day 1 is subfloor prep and backer board. Day 2 is tile layout, setting, and cuts. Day 3 (after 24-hour cure) is grouting. Sealing follows 72 hours after grouting. Rushing any of these windows is the primary cause of tile failures.
If your subfloor is concrete: your prep is simpler - no backer board required, just check for moisture, flatten any high spots, and sweep clean. Concrete is an ideal substrate for tile, which is why tile floors in Atlanta slab-on-grade homes last for decades.
If you're choosing between porcelain and ceramic: both tile equally well with this guide. The installation process is identical. The primary differences are hardness and water absorption - see our full porcelain vs ceramic tile comparison before buying.
If you're tiling over existing tile: it's possible under specific conditions (fully adhered, level, clean), but raises the floor height by 3/8-1/2 inch. Check your toilet flange depth and door clearance before committing to this path.
After you tile: consider your flooring type going forward. Vinyl plank flooring is faster to install and warmer underfoot, but tile delivers superior longevity and water resistance. For a heated floor, electric radiant mats are installed between the backer board and tile - they must be planned before tiling begins, not added after.
For a standard 50-80 sq ft bathroom floor, expect 2-3 days total. Day 1 covers subfloor prep and layout planning (2-4 hours). Day 2 covers tile setting (4-8 hours depending on tile size and cuts). Day 3 is grouting and cleanup (2-3 hours), plus 72 hours for the grout to fully cure before sealing. First-timers should budget more time for cuts around the toilet flange and edges.
Q
Do I need to remove the toilet before tiling?
Yes - remove the toilet before tiling. Tiling around a toilet leaves gaps that are impossible to grout cleanly, and the tile edge exposed when you do eventually remove the toilet for repairs will be unfinished. Toilet removal takes 30-45 minutes and reinstallation takes about the same. Always install a new wax ring when resetting a toilet after a tiling project - they're $5-$12 and are designed for single use.
Q
What type of thinset should I use for bathroom floor tile?
Use polymer-modified thinset (also called modified mortar) for bathroom floors. Standard unmodified thinset is acceptable over concrete, but polymer-modified provides better adhesion, flexibility, and moisture resistance over cement backer board and wood subfloors - the two most common bathroom subfloor situations in the US. For large-format tiles (18×18 inches or larger), use a medium-bed mortar to account for any minor subfloor variation.
Q
How do I know if my subfloor is ready for tile?
The subfloor must pass three checks before tiling: (1) No flex - place a 4-foot level across the floor and press down; if it deflects more than 1/16 inch, it will cause tile cracks over time. (2) Flat within 3/16 inch over 10 feet - use a long straightedge to check for low spots. Fill low spots with floor leveling compound. (3) No squeaks or soft spots - walk the entire floor listening and feeling. Squeaks indicate loose subfloor panels; fix with screws before tiling.
Q
How much tile should I buy for a bathroom floor?
Measure the room's square footage (length × width), then add 10% for waste and cuts on standard square rooms. Add 15% if your room is L-shaped or has a diagonal tile layout. Add 20% for small mosaic tiles or complex patterns. Always buy all your tile from the same dye lot - a mismatch between batches is visible in direct light and impossible to fix without retiling sections. Write the dye lot number on the box as soon as you open it.
Q
Can I tile over an existing tile floor?
Technically yes, but only under specific conditions: the existing tile must be fully adhered (no hollow spots - tap each tile to test), level, and clean. Tiling over existing tile raises the floor height by roughly 3/8 to 1/2 inch, which can create problems at door thresholds and toilet flanges. The toilet flange must sit level with or slightly above the new tile surface, or water can pool and cause long-term seal failure. For most beginner projects, removing old tile gives a more predictable and professional result.
Once your floor is tiled and grouted, it's time to upgrade the fixtures. Bathify carries vanities, LED mirrors, faucets, shower systems, and accessories to complete the look - all with free shipping across the USA on orders over $50.
